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Equine advice on horse care

Purchasing a horse or pony

Before you buy, think carefully about what type of horse or pony you are looking for. When you acquire a horse it becomes your responsibility 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, depending on you for its health, comfort and safety. There are four main points to consider when purchasing a horse or pony:

• What you are using it for.
• The facilities you have available.
• The amount of time you have to exercise and look after it
• The cost of both buying and keeping it.

Take a knowledgeable friend or trainer with you when viewing prospective purchases. Not only will they be able to give you a second opinion on suitability, but they may also be able to spot potential problems or suitability issues.

Pre-purchase veterinary examination

When you've found your ideal horse or pony it is advisable to have a pre-purchase veterinary examination carried out (or vets certificate as it is commonly known). The Five Stage Veterinary Examination for purchase is carried out following guidelines laid down by the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons (RCVS) in conjunction with the British Veterinary Association (BEVA). The examination should be carried out by an experienced veterinary surgeon who will report on whether it is advisable to go ahead with the purchase. Try to use your own veterinary surgeon who will appreciate and advise on your requirements. Having a horse examined, prior to purchase, is not cheap but it may well save you money in the long run. If the horse passes the examination then a certificate will be completed by the veterinary surgeon, which may be used for insuring the horse or pony when the sale is completed.

Vendors certificate

The vendor's certificate is sometimes issued by the vendor or vendor's veterinary surgeon prior to selling the horse. It is not nor should it be regarded as a substitute for a pre-purchase Veterinary Examination.

Should you insure your horse?

Even though it is perceived as being costly, insurance can be essential in the long term to ensure that your horse receives the veterinary care it requires as well as to cover the possible loss of the horse. Colic and orthopaedic surgery are inevitably expensive and you need cover for up to at least £5,000 for these important problems. Insurance companies are becoming more flexible and there are now a wide variety of policies whatever your or your equine's requirements. The many types of cover available include:

• Third Party Insurance
  This is essential as personal injury claims can amount to large sums of money. If you are a member of an equestrian association, such as The British Horse Society, your membership may include public liability insurance.
• All Risks Mortality
  This covers an animal if it is found dead or has to be destroyed on humane grounds, e.g. irreparably fractured leg.
• Veterinary Fees
  This covers the owner for non routine treatment of the horse or pony following accident or illness. Current figures show that you should insure your horse or pony for up to £5000 per incident.
• Loss of Use Cover
  This provides a level of reimbursement if your horse or pony develops a permanent disability (e.g. navicular disease, bone spavin). It is inevitably more expensive to insure for this.

Maintaining a healthy horse

Worming
An all-year-round worming programme is essential for every horse and pony, whatever their age. You should follow a strategic worm control programme which recommends worming at the correct time interval with the most appropriate wormer. This, combined with good pasture management, will keep your horse or pony free from the diseases caused by internal parasites. Regular worming will reduce the risk of colic, diarrhoea and even death.
All horses that graze together should be wormed at the same time and droppings should be removed on a regular basis. Consult your veterinary surgeon for information on recommended worm control programmes.
The effectiveness of a worm control programme can be monitored by regularly submitting dropping samples from individual horses to your veterinary practise for worm egg counts.

Routine vaccination of your horse

It is important to have your horse routinely vaccinated by your veterinary surgeon against tetanus, equine influenza and ideally herpes virus. Veterinary advice should be sought on an effective vaccination programme.
Tetanus is a disease that has an incubation period of between one and three weeks and is caused by bacteria entering the system through often unnoticed deep cuts and puncture wounds. The first signs of the disease include stiffness and reluctance to move. Tetanus can prove fatal and therefore vaccination is essential.
Equine Influenza is a contagious viral respiratory disease that debilitates the horse and leaves it susceptible to secondary infection. Symptoms include a clear discharge from the nostrils, along with a cough and rise in temperature. The incubation period is only 1-5 days, with many horses remaining infectious for 3 to 6 days after the onset of clinical signs. Many equestrian organisations insist that horses hold current vaccination cards showing continuous cover and vaccination against influenza is now mandatory for all horses using racecourse premises.
Equine Herpes Virus is another viral respiratory disease that can cause loss of form. Over 75% of horses are carriers of the virus and symptoms include fever, nasal discharge and coughing which can last for up to three weeks. Some types of herpes virus can cause abortion in pregnant mares and paralysis of in-contacts.

Hoof care

A registered farrier should trim or re-shoe horse and ponies every four to six weeks to maintain healthy hooves. Neglected feet may develop cracks and collapsed heels which may lead to lameness.
Veterinary surgeons often work in conjunction with farriers to correct the balance or shape of a horse's hoof as treatment for types of lameness.
For information on a local registered farrier, please contact The Farrier's Registration Council or talk to your veterinary surgeon.

Dental care

Horses and ponies that have teeth with sharp and uneven edges often develop injuries in the mouth and have difficulty chewing as well as accepting the bit.
Routine dental care should be started in the first year of life with check ups every year, or 6-monthly in horses aged 12+ or for those with malaligned jaws. During these check ups teeth should be examined and rasped by a veterinary surgeon or qualified dental technician and frequency of future dental checks discussed.

Saddle fitting

Saddlery should suit the needs and abilities of both horse and rider. It is highly recommended that a saddle is fitted to the shape of horse or pony by a master saddler to ensure comfort, safety and effectiveness. Tack should be cleaned regularly to maintain it for safe use.

Nutrition

Horses normally consume their daily feed intake over 16-20 hours, therefore when stabled they require small but frequent feeds with no more than 3kg of feed at any one time. Feed ideally 3 to 4 times per day. The horse requires enough feed to provide nutrients and energy for both maintenance of bodyweight and light work. Additional feed will be required during periods of increased workload, pregnancy and lactation. When a horse is working hard or during cold weather, its feed demands increase. Elderly, ailing or injured horses may also require specialist feeds. Fibre is an essential part of the diet so ensure horses have good quality horsehage, hay or other reputable forage feeds.
The leading horse feed companies all provide free helplines, so telephone them for advice on your horse's nutritional requirements. They can also give advice on the dietary management of conditions such as laminitis and azoturia.

Forage

Hay/forage is safest fed on a swept floor as there is no risk of injury and the head is lowered to the normal grazing position. Racks and nets all have the potential to cause injury. If hay nets are used they should be fixed at head height so that your horse or pony has less risk of getting its legs caught.

Water supply

Between 50 and 70 per cent of the horses bodyweight consists of water. Stabled horses need more water because they are eating dry feed. Fresh water should be supplied in clan buckets or via an automatic drinking bowl (provided a metering device is available and is cleaned twice a day). Buckets should be refilled at least twice a day and should be secured to prevent them falling over. The average daily requirement of a horse is 20-40 litres or 5-10 gallons.

Stable management

Stabling
Loose boxes are the most common form of stabling. Each horse must have room to lie down, stand up and be able to turn in comfort. The minimum recommended box size for horses is 3.66m x 3.66m (12ft x 12ft) and 3.05m x .05m (10ft x 10ft) for ponies. These are minimums and must take into consideration the size of horse or pony.
Bedding
Bedding is essential to provide warmth, comfort and protection against cold weather and injury. It should be non toxic and provide effective drainage to maintain a dry bed and should consist of straw wood shavings (or mixes), paper or chopped cardboard. Other less favoured options include peat and sawdust but these are not ideal.
Bedding must be dry and free of dust and mould, so ensure you have a good quality supplier.
Stable hygiene
Droppings and wet bedding should be removed at least twice a day. Loose hay and feed should be swept out of the stable and both the stable and yard should be kept clean and tidy.
Fire hazards
All electrical wires and light switches should be out of reach of both horses and rodents and should be properly earthed. Piles of used bedding should be stored well away from the stable yard and smoking should not be allowed in the yard area. All fire extinguishers and alarms should be checked regularly amd fire exits should be kept clear.

Horses at grass

A field should be well fenced with a reliable water supply. Mature horses require a minimum of one to one and a half acres of grass as overcrowding may lead to competition for food, water and space.
During the winter months or very dry periods, supplementary feed will be required. Hay alone may not be sufficient and if fed must be supplied so as to avoid trampling into the mud.
Horses should be checked twice daily and the grass availability and water supply monitored. During the spring and early autumn keep an eye, especially on ponies, for signs of laminitis. Monitor bodyweight with a weight band. Provide restricted grazing for those animals who are prone to becoming overweight or who have had laminitis before.

Fencing and Gateways

Fencing should ideally be post and rail and be high enough to prevent horses from escaping. Other alternatives include a single top rail with posts and a tight plain wire fence strands underneath. Barbed wire fencing should be avoided as it causes injury. Also avoid sheep wire as horses get caught in it. Use electric tape to keep horses away from barbed and sheep wire. Gateways should be securely fastened and padlocked if near a road.

Water supply

Horses should have access to clean water throughout the day, preferably from self-filling water troughs. Buckets and other watertight containers are also an option, although a lot of work. Water troughs should be cleaned regularly to prevent the build up of algae. Old bathtubs are not acceptable as they are dangerous.
During the winter months water containers often ice up so they must be checked frequently during cold weather to ensure that the horse can reach water.

Shelter

Shelter should be provided to shield horses from wind, rain and snow during the winter months and to provide shade and protection from flies during the summer months.

Pasture management

• Field division
  Ideally, your field should be divided up to allow sections to be rested while others are grazed, to avoid over grazing.
• Dung
  Dung should be removed twice a week, all year round, to aid worm control.
• Wet ground
  If your field is very wet, stable or yard your horse to prevent mud fever (a bacterial skin infection). Symptoms of mud fever include inflamed skin and cracked heels. The legs and sometimes the belly are affected. Left untreated legs may become permanently filled.
• Weeds – including ragwort
  Fields should be kept clear of weeds, particularly ragwort. Ragwort grows from June onwards and can grow between 30-100cms high. The stems are woody and red near the base and the dark green stem leaves are irregular and ragged around the edge with dense yellow flowers. Ragwort is one of the most common causes of poisoning in horses and cattle and symptoms include loss of appetite, condition and constipation. During its latter stages, ragwort poisoning can cause horses to stagger and it can result in digestive disorders, irreversible liver damage and death.
  Ragwort can be controlled by pulling the roots out of the soil, and burning the plants. In general, all weeds can be killed by herbicides.

Security

With theft on the increase there are several ways to keep your horse and equipment safe:

• Get your horse or pony freeze-marked with a unique number branded on the neck or back; or get your farrier to brand your postcode on your horse's hooves, although this will of course grow out in time.
• Microchip your horse – your vet will advise you on this. The advantage of this is that is leaves no external marks, is permanent and chips can be read at sales.
• Photograph your horse from different angles, with particular attention to distinctive marks.
• Chain and padlock the latch and hinge end of your gates.
• Do not leave headcollars on your horse or pony.
• Mark your tack and equipment with your postcode. Some tack shops will be able to mark your tack for security.
• Secure your horsebox or trailer with wheel clamps.

Breeding

You should not breed indiscriminately. Both the mare and stallion should be proven in their field, have good conformation and temperaments. Ideally, breed from registered stock. Consider carefully what you will do with the horses you breed. Bear in mind it will cost a minimum of £1000 per year to raise a young horse. Seek advice from your veterinary surgeon and well established breeders before you embark on breeding a foal.

Veterinary surgeons and professionals who provide a service for your horse

It is important to register your horse with a local veterinary practice which has at least one veterinary surgeon who regularly attends horses. Only veterinary surgeons are legally empowered to investigate clinical problems such as lameness or sore backs; however, a vet may decide to utilise the help of a registered chiropractor, physiotherapist or dental technician to rehabilitate a horse.

Having your horse or pony humanely destroyed

It may be necessary in the event of old age, ill health, or as the result of an accident to have your horse or pony put to sleep to prevent it suffering pain and distress.
Your veterinary surgeon will be able to help you make a decision on whether the horse still has a good quality of life or whether it would be kinder to have the horse put down. Do not leave elderly animals to fend for themselves in fields. It is part of your responsible horse ownership to ensure your horse or pony has a dignified end.
In the unfortunate event of humane destruction there is a significant cost element and practical consideration of disposal of the body. This is all part of the responsible care of the horse. It is best to discuss the options and cost implications with your veterinary surgeon well in advance of a crisis arising to allow a sensible plan of action to be formulated.

Disclaimer Please note that AmTrust International Underwriters Ltd can not take any responsibility for any veterinary opinions or advice provided. The articles we post onto our website are intended as helpful and educational information. Any concerns you have for your horse or pony's medical welfare should be directed to your own vet.